Mar 145 min read

Reinforcement for Stained Glass Hinge Points

Updated: May 9

What is a Hinge Point?

Before we delve into the reinforcement for stained glass hinge points, let's address first, what is a hinge point. A hinge point can be found wherever there is a straight or mostly straight line running across the piece. When pressure is exerted on the front or back of the piece, it will naturally bend along that line. Picture it as a door swinging open, the door (on the side where the door hinges are located) separates from the frame when opened.

Take a moment to observe the example provided and pay attention to the structure of this particular piece. Now, shift your focus to the red arrows and their direction. These arrows indicate hinge points, similar to hinges on a swinging door. Just like a door, when pressure is applied to these hinge points, it will cause a separation.

If you're not sure what a hinge point is, I

suggest reading my article on “Stained Glass Hinge Points - What Are They?” to understand how to avoid them. Having a clear understanding of what they are and how to prevent them in your pattern design will save you the trouble of having to reinforce them. However, if you're determined to include hinge points in your pattern, this article can provide some guidance.

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Ideas to avoid a Hinge

There are a few ways to strengthen your projects and provide stability.

1. Redesign your pattern to avoid hinge points – See my article on “Stained Glass Hinge Points - What Are They?”.

2. Re-Strip is a sturdy copper strip, measuring .010" thick, that serves as hidden structural reinforcement between glass pieces. Simply insert it between foiled panels. Re-Strip is commonly used in stained glass panels and some suncatchers.

3. Tinned copper wire – Commonly used in and around suncatchers. The copper used in this wire is soft tempered so it bends to shape easily. Tinned wire has a thin coat of solder on the wire itself and is ready to use.

Reinforcement Methods

Re-Strip / Braided Reinforcement Strip:

This is a roll of .010” thick of is a sturdy copper strip, measuring .010" thick, that serves as hidden structural reinforcement between glass pieces. Simply insert it between foiled panels. Re-Strip is commonly used in stained glass panels. Remember, incorporating reinforcement directly into the design can have amazing results and a more structurally sound piece.

Tinned Copper Wire

Incorporating copper wire into your suncatcher projects is a simple way to enhance their design and durability. Tinned copper wire comes in various diameters and is measured by gauge. (see below)

A 16 gauge or heavier wire is frequently used in stained glass suncatcher construction for insect antennas, legs, flower stems, bird beaks, etc. The higher the gauge number of the wire, the thinner the wire.

To get started in adding strength to your suncatcher, simply apply a good coat of flux to the tinned wire like you would with foil. Wrap your tinned wire around your piece and tac every so often so that your wire is laying flat along the edge of your suncatcher – ensuring that there is no space between your wire and your copper foil.

In wrapping your tinned copper wire around your suncatchers, the wire acts as a rubber band around a pack of pencils. They are held together so they will not separate. Additionally, since the wire is soldered along each piece, this gives reinforcement to all pieces of glass even if they have hinge joints. Don’t get me wrong, if a hinge point is present and you are using tinned copper wire around your suncatcher, this will not eliminate the possibility of your pieces folding or separating however, it will give it strength and greatly lessen the chances of it. There are many uses for tinned wire and I will address them in another post. However, for now, lets stay on the topic of reinforcement. Take a look at this video made by ARTyRV Glass Studio.

My project is a rather large piece – are you suggesting I use Re-Strip or wire around the entire piece?

All projects are different and call for different tactics to support the hinge points. If you're working with a project such as a 22” x 34”, these approaches might be useful. But keep in mind that depending on the setup, one solution alone might not be adequate to reinforce the hinges. That's why using both solutions simultaneously can be beneficial.

When reinforcement is applied both around the project and within the design, it greatly increases your chances that hinge points won't bend and remain strong.

The photo below shows a project that used zinc framing and Re-Strip within the panel. See all those hinge points?

Now, let's imagine this piece being inserted into a door that experiences frequent opening and closing. As you can imagine, all that continuous movement and vibration will inevitably impact the hinge points. But fear not! By fortifying the hinge points with Re-Strip and a zinc frame, we can greatly reduce the risk of a hinge point disaster.

Zinc Framing

I’m sure you noted that I mentioned a zinc frame within this article but did not explain further. This article focuses on the reinforcement of hinge points. Although zinc framing is another method of reinforcement, it is not a focus here in reinforcing hinge points. I will discuss zinc framing in another post and add a few tips when working with it. For example, the uneven edges on your panel are causing issues with your frame lying flat and your corners meeting up. Do I need to grind down the entire piece or just remove the uneven part, grind it, and put it back in place? What do you suggest I do in this situation?

I will address this topic in another post but for now, thanks for stopping in. If this article was of use to you, please give it a like. You are appreciated!!

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